WEBVTT

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[sil.]

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Globalization is making the
rich world even richer.

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But billions are locked out. They\'re living on
the edge between the rich world and the poor.

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They face tough choices.
They want to join the party.

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Some say globalization is causing a clash
of civilizations. Others call that fantasy.

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But it\'s not fantasy. If you face a
choice between prosperity and your faith,

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that\'s the choice faced by young football
fan, but he and his friends found that

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future locked in a funding capital.

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[music]

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[music]

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[music]

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This is a story of an Island on the edge.

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Lamu is on the eastern coast of Kenya.
It\'s an island

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that looks east and west creating
dilemmas for its people.

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The way they solve them
may affect all of us.

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[music]

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Lamu is poor, one ambulance,
a resort, one car.

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But can its people overcome poverty
without compromising Islamic values?

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It\'s a dilemma that\'s not easily solved.

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[sil.]

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You might think that it would be
easy just get a good education,

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and the good jobs that come with it.
18 year old, Abdulkarim

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has been invited back to his old school
to be congratulated on his exam results,

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the best this year. He\'s a strict Muslim,
and in keeping with his religion,

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wants to help people by training as a doctor.
His success should help him achieve that dream.

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Actually, I\'m overwhelmed with happy.
I\'m very glad to hear that

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I got to be blessed. But there\'s a problem.

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First of all, before everything, I
want first to collect my certificate

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which uh… I got at school around 10,000.

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Abdulkarim owes the equivalent of $160,

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a sizeable amount for a poor Kenyan. And until he finds
that money, he won\'t be given the certificate he\'s earned.

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And that\'s so crucial for his future. I
have to first collect my certificate

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because you cannot go any… any place in this Kenya
first without any certificate, without certificate.

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So I have to find enemies to…

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to get my certificates.
The school can\'t afford

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just to give the exam certificates away
free. It has no dining tables or library,

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and subsidies promised by the
government haven\'t yet arrived.

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It desperately needs the
32,000 US dollars, it\'s lost

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because of unpaid school fees. So for
decades, it\'s been withholding certificates

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from pupils who can\'t afford to pay.

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Yeah, some students who\'ve passed through the school
sell of past well, but they have huge fears(ph)

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of which uh… if we give
them the certificates,

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it means the money will not be paid. So we have to return
the certificates. So that time that we clear with us

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and then what release the certificates
to him. Uh… It\'s unfortunate

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that uh… the number of certificates
we have, we sold large more than

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uh… most 800 certificates.
And this one here is 1975,

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1975, that people start for the exams yet,

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in 1975, and they uploaded people their
certificates. We\'ll look after one.

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Each of these files could represent

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a wasted education or even a wasted life.
We got certificate of education.

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So without the certificate uh…
there\'s no way you can get employed

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or there\'s no way you can go to college because you
don\'t have proof that you\'ve gone through school.

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[sil.]

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It is very tough, but uh… it\'s tougher for
the school because we have debts totally.

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We have to pay for the food that they have taken.
We have to pay for the electricity that we consume.

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We have to pay the workers. We have so many workers
here, the cooks, the watchman, (inaudible) to be paid.

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And unless we have this money, there\'s
no way where we can pay for that.

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The rest of the students bring their fees.
Remember, we have…

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still have some debts for last year. Some
of you have not paid debts for last year.

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Leave alone for this year. We\'re not going to
allow anybody who\'s going to have a fees balance.

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The best student of the year
Abdulkarim is in danger of having

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his certificate locked away forever.
He could start paying off his debts

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by working as a tour guide. But that\'s
something he\'s not prepared to do.

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According to my faith I will
not work with interest.

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Some of them are… they\'re…
they\'re… (inaudible).

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So to me,

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I don\'t think if I\'ll work with them.
I\'ll have rather become

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(inaudible) to teach… to teach students.

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[sil.]

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Since a PT, he\'s a good boy. He\'s one of the best boys in the school.
In fact, it have been position one I think from one upto (inaudible),

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Abdulkarim is a wonderful student.

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And uh… he has been having face problem surely.
And up to now I think he has to be pay like

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around 8,000 Kenyan shillings to 10,000
Kenyan shillings. And umm… in fact,

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he\'s worried. He\'s not sure if he\'ll be able to get back
his certificate, continue his university education or not.

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Abdulkarim isn\'t the only
one of his football friends

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who can\'t afford the certificates.
His close friend Abu Baka

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owes 15,000 Kenyan shillings, almost $250,

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and a third friend Arafat who\'s still
at school already owes over 200.

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Arafat, some more laid back character than
his friends something of a beach boy,

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but all three are devout Muslims.
What they must now decide

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how to pay off their debts without
compromising their religion.

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Like much of Africa, Lamu is crazy about
football. Most celebrate British clubs,

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reminder them on this remote coastal island
how globalized the world has become.

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[music]

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A few years back, graffiti lording British footballer
David Beckham competed with slogans for Osama bin Laden,

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though he\'s even a local
football team called Al Qaeda.

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Now it\'s gone along with the al
Qaeda graffiti. Here at least

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Beckham is on the winning side.
All three Islamic footballers\'

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condemn extremism. And Abdulkarim
reckons there\'s no contradiction

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between Islam and success
in the material world.

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One day, I\'ll become a great talented,

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and brilliant footballer.
So that I can be taken

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to… to the nation (inaudible)
far away from Kenya

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when we play football and
we\'ll earn a lot of money

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because there are many Muslims who earn a lot of
money. And it… it depends the way you spend the money.

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If you spend it nice, for example,
to help others, help poorers,

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orphans to build orphanage,

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or as the way to help students to get away

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from their uh… fees balances, bus
trip celery, to build hospitals,

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and such like things. So I
admire to become one day maybe,

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oh, when I become a great player.

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Being a star like David Beckham may be an
impossible dream. But the Beckham lifestyle

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isn\'t totally out of reach.

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Lamu has become a heaven

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for discerning tourists, and a playground
for globalization\'s new elite.

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[sil.]

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For fashionable artists\',
princesses, racing drivers,

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Lamu is one of their best kept secrets.
They\'re attracted by Sheiko hotels,

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the beaches and the wildlife, and
tourism means the chance of an income.

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It\'s the major income earner for Lamu,

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you know, the fisherman because they bring
in the fish for everyone the (inaudible).

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The local beach boys who take
a sail on fishing trips,

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knocking trips, sunset trips, you know, because
everything hasn\'t been on roads, everything is by boat.

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(inaudible) can you hold him? I can\'t.

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Let him go on them. Let him go.

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[sil.]

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Part of Lamu\'s charm as its ancient
links with the Islamic world.

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The traditional music is tear up.

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It\'s a style that became popular along the
East African coast in the 19th century

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when Lamu came under the
control of the Sultan of Oman.

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Lamu is still an island that looks
not just to the west, but to Arabia

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which is more reason why tourists find
it unique. In the \'70s, it acquired

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the reputation of a hippie paradise,
an African Goa or Katmandu.

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But Lamu success as exotic destination

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presents its people with
a fundamental dilemma.

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While they\'ve nothing against ordinary law
abiding tourists like these, they still feel

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many Westerners are
Hippies or Rastafarians.

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Look, you… you look absolutely…

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That\'s… that\'s… I\'ve got green eyes.
Wow. Wow, you know, (inaudible).

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Fantastic. We\'re Ninja.

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We\'re Ninja. It\'s actually very sexy.
Look at this. It is sexy. (inaudible).

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So many of Lamu\'s Muslims feel they have
to choose between dealing with Westerners

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and obeying their religion.

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The local Imam is also a baker
selling cakes to tourists.

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He believes that dilemma can be resolved
if his fellow Muslims are clear

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what they want from the west. We
want from Western their knowledge,

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but not their culture. The tourists, they\'re
not so bad. They\'re not bad for us,

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but we have to be strong on our
culture so we influence them,

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not them to influence us.

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Many young people can
see some of them Rasta.

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Now we can see them with alcohol,

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bottle of alcohol in the streets. Also
the other side, drug abuse is growing

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very fast here. Many young
people, they\'re have… have been

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drug abuse. And all type of
drugs are possible here.

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Majority of Lamu people were under
line of the poverty line, majority.

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This play a big role to make them

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without any uh… principles.
They can do anything.

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So the three friends now
have to make a choice.

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As good Muslims should they deal with
the rich western (inaudible) or not?

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It\'s a dilemma that splits them apart.
For Arafat, the

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lay back sailor of Tao\'s making
cash from tourists is no problem.

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How to get money that\'s God\'s plan,
but I do have also have a plan.

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Working with Tao\'s and now
do it with some tourists,

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and I have to work with them. It\'s like easy
thing. He doesn\'t share the Imam\'s concern

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about rastas and hippies. To be
a Muslim, does it mean that\'s

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if they\'ve got maybe I\'ve got harrassed and
maybe or maybe I\'ve got something else,

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you know, to be Muslim and in a faith.
How can we need your faith?

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If you believe, you have to believe.

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[non-English narration]

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Langley, nice water. Like
in… in uh… winter time.

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Arafat would like to have
a Western girlfriend

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as some of his friends do. You know, I can say
if whenever I get some girl friend from Europe,

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sit front of me, sit and have fun time.

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It was a very, very, very unnormal

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for God to be a friend with your boy
before marriage, very, very unnormal.

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But now according to the
uh… influence of media,

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films, tourism, it has
to be very normal now.

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You can see many gods, they talk openly,

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somebody make a boyfriend,
somebody make girlfriend.

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And… before it was very shame.
And so the moment

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he\'s westernization winning, and his
Islam losing? Losing. Of course,

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of our people know, they cannot see
any danger for this. They just see

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material and things like this. We…
We\'ve our responsibility Imams\'

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and religious leaders. We
have a big uh… responsibility

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to bring awareness to our people.

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They cannot see until we open their
eyes and then they can see the future.

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Of the three friends,
Abdulkarim sides most strongly

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with the Imam. He doesn\'t believe
the fundamental principles of faith

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can be managed. You know,
we\'ve been brought up from

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by Islamic faith. And I think,

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according to Islamic point
of view, it\'s against

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to work with tourist. Not to work with
tourists to earn money as I said like things,

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but the way they behave those tourists.

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For example, the way they dress,

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the way they brought western
culture to our community,

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they have a lot of negative
effect than positive.

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Some of the tourists brought
drugs which is very harmful

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to our… to our community and Imam.

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I strongly believe in my region and

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uh… I follow the roles of the religion.

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So Abdulkarim refuses
to work with tourists.

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Even though, it could help him make
the cash to buy his exam certificate,

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and ensure his future as a doctor.

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Instead, this highly gifted young Muslim serves
on a vegetable stall in Lamu\'s ancient market.

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Here he earns 50 Kenyan
shillings about 80 cents a day.

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His friend Arafat reckons Abdulkarim\'s
being guided by his own principles,

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more than his religion.

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Yes, this is one principle maybe
he has got very limits faith,

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and maybe the way (inaudible) very, very little,
little bit, but at the same time, maybe,

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after he has got a lot of
money, we can change his faith.

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Abdulkarim works on the stand
with his friend Abu Bakar.

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Abu Bakar is 20. He wants to
become a language teacher,

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but he too must earn enough money
to get hold of his certificate.

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Although siding more with Abdulkarim,
he\'s doing so brother reluctantly.

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I like tourists, but my religion

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it got to allow to do that job.

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The three friends can\'t agree on how they should
react to the tourists and their Western values.

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Their dilemma is a reflection of a wider
debate in Lamu, and this takes ever higher.

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Foreigners are often so entranced
when they set foot in Lamu,

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and neighboring Manda island,
they end up buying property here.

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I think these big houses are set personally
because they come, they have their holiday home.

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And then it\'s empty for ten months of the year,
and maybe used it two months of the year.

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[sil.]

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Lamu is being transformed as outsiders buy up the
beach front plots, and beautiful old houses.

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When Westerners offer
millions of Kenyan shillings

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to spend on property then money
is even harder to turn down.

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The value of the houses is… is very high.
It\'s not that

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uh… people didn\'t want to sell their houses, but you
are getting an offer that you can do something else,

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and get out from where you
are, and be someone else.

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Most of the people now from Lamu
are shifting in (inaudible).

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It was someone else\'s house
maybe was one million,

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and someone come and give you 15 million. 15 million,
we go to Mumbai, so you can get two or three houses.

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One, you stay buy yourself,
two, you take a rent,

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and you stay (inaudible).

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For example, for someone like me to have a house in
the beach, I want to enjoy the beauty of the view,

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the beauty of the breeze,
the beauty of the nature.

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But if I… I\'m not worthy enough. I cannot enjoy
those kind of beauty, you know. So that\'s why

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most of the… most of the beach
properties are belong to the foreign.

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Abdulkarim is less relaxed about

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Westerners buying friends, and neighbors\'
properties, and he says he\'s not alone.

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Most of the people being very
angry about them because maybe

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I have my relative, I have my
neighbor, he wants a property,

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or he wants a plot for such kind of
money, for example, two million.

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And here comes a foreigner.
He also wants like

00:21:00.000 --> 00:21:04.999
uh… same plot of money
for about 10 million.

00:21:05.000 --> 00:21:09.999
So he always goes to the… to
the higher amount of money

00:21:10.000 --> 00:21:14.999
than two million. So most of the
people here thinks about these

00:21:15.000 --> 00:21:19.999
uh… this is the major (inaudible) and
thus face most beautiful of Lamu.

00:21:20.000 --> 00:21:24.999
I think we must have something to
do about it, before it\'s too late.

00:21:25.000 --> 00:21:29.999
Like his friends, Abdulkarim
strongly opposes Islamic extremism.

00:21:30.000 --> 00:21:34.999
And there\'s no evidence al Qaeda
sympathizers are hiding here now.

00:21:35.000 --> 00:21:39.999
But one of the men behind the U.S. embassy bombing
in Nairobi is reported to have taught in the area.

00:21:40.000 --> 00:21:44.999
And Lamu is just 70 miles
from Alula, Somalia.

00:21:45.000 --> 00:21:49.999
So the U.S. military has been
trying to win hearts and minds

00:21:50.000 --> 00:21:54.999
with helpful local students
including at one time, Abdulkarim.

00:21:55.000 --> 00:21:59.999
[sil.]

00:22:00.000 --> 00:22:04.999
With most people grateful for the help, the Imam
says, the biggest danger now is Western Paranoia.

00:22:05.000 --> 00:22:09.999
I can tell them to be aware from phobia.

00:22:10.000 --> 00:22:14.999
The problem of them is
Islamic, is Islam phobia.

00:22:15.000 --> 00:22:19.999
We\'re not like that. They make
very, from where very little seed,

00:22:20.000 --> 00:22:24.999
a very big tree.

00:22:25.000 --> 00:22:29.999
They fear for nothing. We cannot
cause that danger for anyone.

00:22:30.000 --> 00:22:34.999
[music]

00:22:35.000 --> 00:22:39.999
Lamu is on the edge between spiritual
Islam, and a consumer west.

00:22:40.000 --> 00:22:44.999
In a globalized world, the
two are bound to meet

00:22:45.000 --> 00:22:49.999
and maybe clash ever more often.

00:22:50.000 --> 00:22:54.999
As the West moves in, the future of a long established
Islamic community here is in the balance.

00:22:55.000 --> 00:22:59.999
Young Muslims who live on this idyllic
island have to decide how to react.

00:23:00.000 --> 00:23:04.999
Yeah. That is the problem.

00:23:05.000 --> 00:23:09.999
That is the major problem we\'re facing
out with women because they don\'t know

00:23:10.000 --> 00:23:14.999
whether I go for maybe to sell
tomatoes or maybe to have

00:23:15.000 --> 00:23:19.999
any other kind of walk or maybe may
I go to there to their tour guide,

00:23:20.000 --> 00:23:24.999
but most of them think about money.
So they think that

00:23:25.000 --> 00:23:29.999
this tour guide earns a lot of money.
Some of them are engaged in that dilemma

00:23:30.000 --> 00:23:34.999
whether to do this or to do
that… that thing. But one thing

00:23:35.000 --> 00:23:39.999
I\'ve told them is about you have
faith, a faith in good, trust good,

00:23:40.000 --> 00:23:44.999
do not engage yourself into a DVD\'s

00:23:45.000 --> 00:23:49.999
which will come to regret after that.

00:23:50.000 --> 00:23:54.999
As we leave them, Abdulkarim and his friends
still face their dilemma, how to make money

00:23:55.000 --> 00:23:59.999
to claim the exam certificates they need
without compromising their Muslim values?

00:24:00.000 --> 00:24:04.999
Until they solve this dilemma,
their future remains locked away.

00:24:05.000 --> 00:24:13.000
[music]